Vintage Dior Saddle Bag by John Galliano: A Collector's Guide

The Dior Saddle bag is a vintage designer handbag first introduced by John Galliano in 1999, characterised by its asymmetrical silhouette and D-shaped clasp. Between 1996 and 2011, John Galliano transformed Dior into something the fashion world had never seen before. His collections were theatrical, provocative, and deeply referential — and his accessories were no exception. Of everything he created during his tenure, the Saddle bag remains the most recognisable, the most collected, and the most copied.

1999 — The Beginning

Galliano introduced the Saddle bag in October 1999, as part of Dior's Spring/Summer 2000 ready-to-wear collection. Inspired by equestrian culture and the work of photographer Helmut Newton, the bag was unlike anything else on the market — asymmetrical, sculptural, and designed to be worn short-strapped and tight against the hip. Within months, it had been spotted on Sarah Jessica Parker's character Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City, Paris Hilton, and Foxy Brown — cementing its place in early 2000s culture.

The Double Pocket — Galliano Pushes Further

As the Saddle evolved through the early 2000s, Galliano began introducing more elaborate variations. The Double Pocket Saddle added an additional front pocket, chain detailing, and more dramatic hardware — taking the original silhouette and pushing it toward something more theatrical.

Available in suede, leather, and rare colourways, the Double Pocket is now one of the most collectible variations from the entire Galliano era. The green suede version in particular is among the rarest pieces we've come across — a bag that genuinely stops people in their tracks.

2004 — The Pierced Saddle

By 2004, Galliano was at the height of his creative confidence at Dior. The Pierced Saddle took the original silhouette and overlaid it with punk-inspired hardware — piercing rings, silver chains, and bold studs that had more in common with a Westwood corset than a traditional luxury handbag.

It was provocative, irreverent, and completely intentional. The Pierced Saddle is now one of the most sought-after pieces from the mid-2000s Dior archive — a bag that could only have existed in this specific moment, under this specific designer.

Why Galliano's Saddles Matter Now

Galliano left Dior in 2011. The bags he created during his tenure are now archive pieces — no longer in production, increasingly difficult to find in good condition, and rising steadily in collector value.

The Saddle was reissued by Maria Grazia Chiuri in 2018, but the reissues are not the same. The original Galliano-era pieces carry a weight of cultural history that cannot be replicated — the leather, the hardware, the proportions all feel different in hand.

If you're drawn to this era of fashion, the Saddle is one of the most meaningful entry points into the Galliano archive.

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